The first adobe city in the world and the last one (maybe), a forest of wind towers and etc. Yazd is usually defined through these clichés. But here, I’m not going to talk about Yazd the way you might find it in any tourism books, if so, definitely lonelyplanet.com can describe it much better than me, unlike, what I want to do is just to take you to Yazd through a tour of words.
I was on a business trip when I visited Yazd for the first time. I had only one day to explore the whole city and I started unearthing history of Yazd from the most beckoning places.
Mir Chakhmagh, where Light and Water Unite
Mir Chakhmagh complex was the first place to visit in my Yazd-discovering journey. I took a Snap (uber-style taxi in Iran) from Safayie hotel to Mir chakhmagh, and I should say that the driver was a wonderful guy and on my last day there, I found out that the whole people are hospitable, and I enjoyed feeling quite safe and happy in that city. When I arrived at Mir Chakhmagh, I got mesmerized by its peaceful atmosphere, it was literally love at first sight! Its alcoves were lit up by an orange color and the reflection of symmetrical structure on the front fountain pool won my heart. But the most exciting part was seeing that world-famous “Nakhl” which is a wooden structure with plenty of niches used in religious ceremonies.
Around the square, I found a lot of restaurants, gift shops and confectionaries which the most famous ones are Haj Khalife confectionary (I will talk more about this). There was also a small roofed traditional Bazar where you can find gift shops, basic fast food and kebab restaurants. I didn’t have time to have my dinner there, but it wasn’t difficult to guess from crowded restaurants that they were offering delicious meals.
Then it was turn to take a stroll and enjoy visiting gift shops with colorful Terme table cloth, bags, purses and pencil cases. Finally, I met a friendly shopkeeper who helped me with buying Terme purses. It was about 11 pm and the guy told me that the city and whole shops will be closed in no time and it’s better to go back to the hotel.
The next day was rainy and seeing every part of my favorite city under drizzle turned it to a dreamy wander.
Zorostrian Fire Temple Feeds Your Soul, Melts Your Heart
I had my breakfast in the hotel; then, I headed to a very sacred place, Zorostrian fire temple. A 15-minute drive took me to the temple. After buying a ticket from box office I entered the court of the temple. The reflection of the fire temple with Farvahar sign on top of it upon the front circle fountain pool gave me a warm welcome. What makes the temple so much different and dear is the fire which has been kept alight continuously for over 1500 years. As I kept staring at that fire, my soul was melting within it; it was a short but deep meditation. To be honest, it wasn’t easy for me to quit the temple.
In the basement of fire temple there were some photo galleries exhibiting Zorostrian rituals, lifestyle, costumes and ceremonies. All photos are taken by Zorostrian photographers and they are definitely worth spending time on (all descriptions are bilingual).
After feeding my soul in the fire temple, it was time to feast my eyes on the old town. It was a 10-minute ride away from the heart of the old town. It was still drizzling and I got off the taxi by the old clock tower, striking 12. At the end of the cobbled street of clock tower, Jame Mosque of Yazd was waiting for me.
Jame Mosque of Yazd, a Blue Sea of Tilework
Along the street you can find cafés, gift shops and the sweetest ice-cream booths offering Faloode- Yazdi. Some young girls were busy with taking selfies in the middle of the street, others were enjoying their Faloode and I was in a hurry to see the mosque that I had heard a lot about and then it was time to meet up! The Jame mosque of Yazd was blue as its sky. One could easily get sunk in the see of its blue tilework. After seeing every delicate tilework of mosque meticulously, it was time for a tea under that rainy sky.
Rooftop Teahouse, Enjoy Your Tea in the Open-air Museum
Yazd is famous for its rooftop Cafés and I was lucky to find one of the best. Although all benches were wet, the staff helped me with having a wonderful teatime. My tea was pared with Baklava Yazdi, making the most perfect couple in the world. The café was overlooking the old town and I had my tea watching open air museum of Jame mosque of Yazd, adobe houses and wind towers.
Old town labyrinths, Let Your Soul Wander through History
Nobody expects a first-timer to know labyrinths of the old town like the back of her hand, so did I. That’s why I decided to get lost in the labyrinths and discover it on my own instead of following google map. I knew that there was a treasure trove in every corner of the old town. Peaceful, cozy, quiet, tranquil,… are just a few words to describe how the ambiance of the old town was and add soothing rain drops to all those. It was more like computer games to discover a wonderland in every corner than a real life experience!
Heidarzadeh Museum of Coin and Anthropology, Where History Is Imprisoned
The first thing that took my eyes was Heidarzadeh Museum of Coin and Anthropology. The museum was set in a traditional house with courtyards boasting a fountain pool in its heart. Rooms were set around the court and in the heart of every room you could find history. Coins from different historical eras were gathered in that museum and traditional lifestyle and costumes of Yazd people were exhibited perfectly.
On my way, plenty of traditional hotels, guest houses and hostels were twinkling. Most of the hotels are set in traditional houses, and people are allowed to visit them, go to their cafés and enjoy traditional meals in their restaurants, even if they are not staying in those hotels.
I kept strolling without knowing what the old town would bring for me! And all of sudden, I found myself in Fahadan district, which is the most famous part of the old town.
Fahadan district, a Town in the Heart of the Old Town
From its cisterns to gift shops and cafes, Fahadan district won’t let you down. I saw a Zoorkhane on my way, which is a UNESCO-listed Iranian ancient sport. You will find it like gymnasium and martial arts. Visitors are allowed to enter the Zoorkhane and sit around the central area where Pahlavans are exercising to the rhythmic drum.
Art House of Yazd, Art of Culinary, Pottery and Hospitality
The next station on my journey was Art House of Yazd, a true art house. It as a café-restaurant run and managed by some young artists. The rooftop café is decorated artistically and you can’t stop appreciating them. Since it was rainy I couldn’t have my second tea on the rooftop and I entered the café. It is better to call it a museum than a café. For sitting there were two options: tables and traditional ottomans. I preferred the traditional ottoman and ordered Ku-ku sabzi(Persian herb baked omelet) for lunch followed by saffron tea. Having a divine kuku sabzi in the heart of old town, in one of the best cafes of Yazd accompanied with rain was quite dreamy. They offered the tea with rock candy in a beautiful mug flaunting violet roses and nothing could make me happier.
Visit Yazd from rooftop view of Art House.
Haj Khalife Confectionary, as Sweet as Memories of Yazd
It was getting late and I needed to buy souvenirs. As I told at the beginning of the article Haj Khalife confectionary with lots of branches across the city is the most known and popular confectionary in Yazd. Thanks to a wide variety of Baklava, traditional pastry, divine cotton candy and popular cupcakes everyone who has sweat teeth will find Yazd like a heaven on earth.
In the main branch all types of pastries with different packages were displayed on the showcase and I could choose among them. Visiting Yazd finished with buying Baklava and the next morning I left the city.
Was Yazd as dreamy as it was in the photos and travel books?
Even more! I believe that neither photos nor words can portray or describe the exact atmosphere and glory of this desert city. Since I was on a business trip, I didn’t have enough time to visit all sights, but you can also read about Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyan, Mirror and Lighting Museum, and Yazd Water museum. Baghe dolat-abad is also one of the must-sees when it comes to Yazd. But I think the following video, which is recorded by my friend, can show you how beautiful this Iranian garden is.
Take a short trip around Dowlat Abad Garden.
In the end, if you’re a history lover like me who craves for wandering through the ups and downs of history and excavate past days with a new perspective, Yazd is one of the best cities in Iran to visit.
